Water, woods and the arts in Maine

Beth J Harpaz
Maine has something for everyone, from hiking and beaches to adventure and the arts

For me, a summer holiday means spending time on a Maine pond where the sound of loons calling is about the most exciting thing that happens all day.

But I do venture occasionally from my little paradise to experience other things the state has to offer, whether it's the coast, a mountain hike, a whitewater adventure or a museum. Here are a few options in Maine.

THE SHORE

Maine's scenic coast has so many wonderful towns that you almost can't go wrong, but every spot has its own personality. Old Orchard Beach just outside Portland has a sandy beach, busy pier with food, drink and souvenirs, and an old-fashioned amusement park. You could also make a day of visiting Popham Beach State Park in Phippsburg in the morning (the wide sandy beach is great for kite-flying) and nearby Reid State Park in Georgetown in the afternoon (rocky outcroppings, tidal pools and a lagoon). In Rockland, the man-made Breakwater jetty lets you walk nearly a mile from the shore into Penobscot Bay, and a ferry runs across to Vinalhaven island, where it's worth spending the night. Pemaquid Point Lighthouse Park is another popular spot.

HIKING

Acadia National Park and the gateway town of Bar Harbor are beautiful but very busy in summer. About 1.5 million people visited the park in July and August of 2016, so be prepared for traffic and crowded trails. For a lovely, doable alternative, consider a day in Camden, with a hike up Mount Battie. A poem by Edna St Vincent Millay, Renascence, engraved on a plaque at the top, describes the stunning view, with references to "three long mountains and a wood" and "three islands in a bay".

For serious hikers, the Appalachian Trail runs through Maine , terminating atop Mount Katahdin in Baxter State Park . Depending on your route and fitness level, a hike up and down Katahdin's steep, rocky trails could take 10 to 12 hours, which means you'll run out of daylight if you don't start early. Parking for Katahdin hikes is also limited and often gone by 8am, so consider driving up the night before.

WHITEWATER

Whitewater trips are available on several Maine rivers. My favourite outfitter is Moxie Outdoor Adventures, based in West Forks, which offers an all-day Kennebec River trip that's part paddling like crazy through Class IV rapids and part scenic wilderness float trip. Midday, boats are beached on an island where guides cook steak and chicken over a fire. On one trip, we even saw a moose en route to our launch spot. Warning: You will get soaked. Bring a quick-drying fleece to wear over a swimsuit and shoes (not flip-flops) to wear in the water.

MOOSE

You can find moose-watching tours on land and water. I've enjoyed sunset boat trips to see moose on Moosehead Lake, but as with any such excursion, there are no guarantees that you'll see the wildlife you came for. In rural and northern areas, moose present serious driving hazards, especially at dawn, dusk and after dark, so watch out (and be careful what you wish for).

FOR KIDS

Portland Children's Museum is fun for a rainy day. Aquaboggan Water Park in Saco offers slides, wave pools and mini-golf. Old-fashioned fairs take place around the state all summer, featuring rides, games, farm animal displays and more. One friend told me his little girl's favourite Maine outing was chasing butterflies at the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens .

THE ARTS

In Portland, visit Henry Wadsworth Longfellow's house (he wrote the poem Paul Revere's Ride) or take a Stephen King tour of Bangor to see places that inspired his spooky tales. In Cushing, tour the Olson House where Andrew Wyeth painted Christina's World and see Wyeth paintings at Rockland's Farnsworth Museum . The Portland Museum of Art offers tours of painter Winslow Homer's waterfront studio and house on Prouts Neck. Music festivals abound as well, from classical to folk.

BOAT RIDES

Rent a kayak or canoe, or take a ferry, like the ones to Monhegan Island or from Portland to the islands of Casco Bay. There are fancy yachts, schooner rides and dinner cruises, along with lobster boats where you can watch a lobster trap being pulled in. Many port towns also offer nature boat rides. Just know that you could pay a lot of money to spend a few hours on the ocean and not see the whales, seals, eagles or puffins pictured in the brochure.

SEAFOOD

Everybody has a favorite place for lobster rolls and chowder. Mine include the Harraseeket Lunch and Lobster Company in South Freeport and The Lobster Shack at the end of Two Lights Road in Cape Elizabeth.

LODGING

Take your pick: campsites, B&Bs, motels, hotels, even upscale resorts. Or rent a rustic cottage, what Mainers refer to as a "camp". If you're lucky enough to be on the water, sit back and listen for those loons.