Borrow From The Boys: The Menswear Fashion Week Looks We'll Be Stealing
The start of the year doesn't only mean abandoned resolutions or the sweet smell of a fresh Smythson diary, as for us fashion folk it also means menswear! The first month of the year ushers in Menswear Fashion Week, starting in Florence with Pitti Uomo before moving to Milan and then to Paris.
Though the concept of gendered clothing continues to feel less necessary with designers themselves increasingly blurring the lines or showing co-ed, there's still an appetite for defined his and hers collections. But, we can always learn from each other, right?
From interesting colour combinations to some very familiar muses, here are the best styling tricks and tips to borrow from the boys this season.
Weekend in the Country
Italian heritage house Fendi had eyes on all-things-British this season as its collection riffed on the sorts of pieces you'd see worn to stalk our green and pleasant lands. Comparisons to the late Queen Elizabeth II's wardrobe were plain to see too, with her Balmoral favourites — a pleated skirt, Mackintosh and splash-ready Wellingtons — worn together with steely reserve.
Make it Match
Gucci didn't abandon the idea of wearing matching accessories entirely, but instead rephrased them to swap out the classic matching bag and shoe for a coordinating back and glove. Set against a monochrome chocolate brown tailoring backdrop, it was a sleek styling trick that anyone battling this cold spell could get on board with. Chic and a little subversive.
A (Prada) Perfect Palette
Colour at Prada is always a point of interest, with Miuccia Prada, and now Raf Simons, always willing to challenge what pairs well and where. This season was no different and most evident in the clashing twinset combinations where Prada's tried and tested alt pairings become the collection's scene-stealers breathing new life to classic pieces. Wear it now by clashing your knitwear collection as obscurely as possible.
Take Us to Bed
Thank you, SS Daley, for seeing us and noticing that we don't really want to leave the comfort of our bedrooms right now. Inspired by boarding school dormitories, the collection spun duvets into the dress coats to offer a smarter, sharper take on the padded jacket. And back to sleep...
Bowed Over
It's no secret that bows are the adornment du jour. In proof that no surface is safe from the pretty knotted style, Dolce & Gabbana fastened its tuxedo with a ribbon. Its sweetness felt in perfect contrast with the suit's angular line, especially with its shirt-free, fuss-free styling.
Suited and Booted
The menswear shows are always great for a source of tailoring inspiration. This season, look to newcomer Achilles Ion Gabriel. The tri-factor of grey check it showed offers visual intrigue, while its silhouette remaining louche ensuring its wearability. And the same applies to the decision to style it with toe-capped pointed boots.
Trophy Jacket Clash
The most interesting outfit recipes often come when opposite pieces are paired together in a new harmony. At Louis Vuitton this season, Pharrell Williams did just that by pairing a boxy, collarless brilliant-white jacket with washed-out baggy denim. Wear this now by taking your favourite fancy jacket and contrasting it with you much-loved floor-trailing jeans. Ballet pumps or loafers will finish the look.
A Flash of Leg
Trust Jonathan Anderson to make the sheer tight — including exposed gusset — a thing at the menswear shows. Proving that the no-trousers trend has legs for the next season too, the Northern Irish designer chose not to pair knitwear and sweaters with any semblance of a bottom to allow the tights to become a subversive sartorial styling option the brave will no doubt adopt in due course.
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