The most luxurious hotels in Phuket, Thailand's gateway island
Over the past few decades, Thailand has become one of the most visited countries in Asia, making the allegory of Alex Garland’s seminal Nineties novel The Beach more keenly felt than ever. But thankfully, lots of hotels are embracing sustainability and attempting to counter the effects of mass tourism.
Phuket is now Thailand’s leading destination for luxury, with most major hotel brands having a presence there. The resort town of Patong may have once been a sleepy shore with water buffalo wading through the rice paddies, but now it’s the island’s party hub. For something a little more authentic, head south to Phuket’s old town to admire its pastel-coloured 19th-century shophouses and Sino-Portuguese architecture, and to try out its many unassuming but excellent restaurants.
To see the quieter side of life (especially for those of you on an Alex Garland pilgrimage in search of ‘paradise’), set sail from Phuket for one of the smaller islands in Phang Nga Bay. The Six Senses outpost there, on Koh Yao Noi, encourages guests to live the good life, collecting their own eggs for breakfast, making beeswax wraps and mixing up their own scrubs at the spa. A similarly authentic experience awaits at the Sarojin, over the bridge to the mainland in Khao Lak, in Thailand’s Phang Nga Province.
Unlike many favourite Thai destinations, such as Koh Samui, Phuket is easily reachable: several airlines offer flights direct from London. Feeling inspired? These are the best luxury hotels in Phuket to book now before The White Lotus effect starts to ripple when season three of the hit show, currently being filmed in Thailand, arrives next year…
Best for sun, sea and spa: Rosewood Phuket
Departing from the classic teak-heavy Thai aesthetic, Rosewood Phuket has villas that are designed to feel like a stylish beach house – and they’ve nailed it. The LEED-certified resort has organic foliage, since nothing was chopped down to make room for it (even though this meant sacrificing a sea view at times). You can vaguely hear the beats of Patong in the distance and there’s a beach for strolls along the Emerald Bay shoreline right on the resort’s doorstep.
Also down at the shore in a cove once used to shelter fishermen, with an ancient tamarind tree and a lofty peak looming above it, Ta Khai is the resort’s traditional restaurant. It’s run by a Thai couple (affectionately known as ‘Auntie’ and ‘Uncle’), who create tasting menus and typical dishes so you can experience authentic local cuisine during your stay. Cooking classes are available for anyone hoping to take some curry-making skills home with them. For less spice, simply head to Red Sauce, a lively Italian restaurant at the resort that’s perfect for both families and pizza purists. The hotel also has a glossy cocktail bar that’s especially glamorous after-dark and the modestly named Shack for poolside tacos and Thai salads during the day.
Opposite the grandly proportioned, open-air lobby is the stellar spa – at Asaya, the sense of serenity starts as soon as you take a seat to await your therapist in the peaceful garden. The treatment menu consists of Thai massages and facials by the French-Japanese brand Evidens de Beauté, with an extensive wellness programme also on offer, from sound therapies to advice for stress release, skin health, fitness and nutrition. The treatment rooms are self-contained sanctuaries, some with their own Himalayan salt sauna, outdoor bath tub and alfresco sitting area.
Best for the good life: Six Senses Yao Noi
It’s almost 30 years since Alex Garland’s book The Beach was published – and we all know what happened next. Paradise became even harder to locate with the rise of mass tourism, high-rise hotels and destroyed natural environments. But if you’re searching for a taste of the old Thailand, Six Senses Yao Noi is here for you, with a charmingly rustic resort, set in Phang Nga Bay, a short speedboat ride away from Phuket’s shoreline. As with most things, places that are a little harder to get to are more than worth the journey – and this hotel is a case in point. It’s on the island of Koh Yao Noi, where you’ll find a much slower pace of life, people travelling on tuk-tuk, songthaew (Thailand’s signature open-air two-row taxis) and moped, romantic shacks on the beach and rather incredible sunsets.
The hotel is located with a perfect vantage point out to the iconic limestone karsts of Phang Nga Bay and, for the ultimate experience, it’s wise to book a cabin overlooking them. The treehouse-style suites are honeymoon perfection: rustic wooden huts with a private pool and lounge area on the deck, a sunken bath tub above the bay, an outdoor shower and a canopied bed. These self-contained suites are so well-equipped, you’ll be loath to leave – but you should, to dine at the Thai restaurant, to visit the spa or to collect your own eggs from the resident chickens to take to breakfast. Sunrise and sunset will be spectacular from any angle, but it’s hard to beat the Hilltop, the highest point in the resort, with a communal pool, a refined restaurant and an elevated bar attached.
It may have desert-island vibes, but a stay here means being castaway in paradise – especially if heaven for you means a deli where you can make your own sandwich, two beaches, an ice-cream parlour and a super spa. Even the chickens have jazz played to them to keep them happy.
Best for an authentic Thai experience: The Sarojin
The Sarojin is another hotel for nostalgic travellers in search of a less-busy and developed Thailand. The owners had to search far and wide for the perfect plot to build their hotel, having found Patong already too crowded – the days when buffalo drank in the surrounding paddies were gone, replaced by party boats and their background thrum. Technically across the bridge on the mainland in Phang Nga Province, rather than on Phuket island itself, the Sarojin gets an honorary place on our list of the best hotels in Phuket, since you have to land in Phuket and make the hour’s drive north by car.
The adults-only hotel is faultless, mostly, we suspect due to the hardworking presence of the general manager, Khun Kade, who appeared regularly but unobtrusively during our stay to ensure everything was perfect (it was). The rooms and suites are set around a beautiful garden, with a short path leading to the sand. There’s a pool with cabanas in the middle of the lawn, fairy lights illuminating the gorgeous grounds at night and a bar just back from the beach, which is where to head after you’ve watched the sun set over the curving bay. At the spa, open-air treatment rooms mean your massage will be soundtracked by the faint breeze and birdsong. Activities on offer in Khao Lak include elephant treks, river cruises, hikes in nearby national parks with primary forests and deep-sea fishing. The hotel is also close to one of the best snorkelling and diving destinations in the world: the Similan Islands are a swift boat ride away and the Sarojin has a vessel you can charter. It’s also available for romantic sunset cruises.
It’s the Phuket hotel for advocates of a lie-in while on holiday, since the all-day breakfast is taken literally – as in, it’s on offer until 6pm. Along with a constantly reappearing pastry selection and free-flowing fizz, guests can order unlimited sweet and savoury dishes. A similar approach is taken on the all-you-can-eat Thai nights, where guests can feast on classic local cuisine. For added romance, simply deploy the team's offer of setting up your table somewhere special that evening (options include local waterfalls and sandbars).
Best for foodies: Trisara
Upscale Thai hotels don’t get much better or more authentic than Trisara, which opened 20 years ago and really set the bar for luxury in Phuket. The hotel is home to the only Michelin-starred restaurant on the island, which was recently relocated to a grander space next door. At Pru, guests flock from all over the island for fine-dining with flashes of formality – though you can see the chef has a sense of humour and doesn’t take himself or his cooking too seriously (note to other Michelin maestros). Steps lead up to the grand new building, where you’re ushered into a reception room for a glass of Thai sparkling wine and some fancy snacks. When it’s time to move to the main restaurant, you’ll be seated either up at the counter to watch the chefs at work as the sun sets behind them or at a regular table. In between each course, various people (and occasionally Chef Jimmy Ophorst himself) appear for an interactive lesson where you’re encouraged to touch, smell and taste the ingredients, with bonus points if you can guess what certain things and flavours are. It’s an unforgettable experience and certainly a worthy pilgrimage for all self-respecting foodies.
Though Pru is undoubtedly the highlight of Trisara’s food and drink offering, the gourmet retreat is also home to Cielo, where Mediterranean cooking techniques are combined with Thai ingredients – expect to dine on supersize roast prawns, snapper ceviche, and fennel, pine nut and pomegranate salads; and an authentic Thai restaurant, with a focus on seafood and the cuisine of southern Thailand. Then there’s Jampa at Tri Vananda, the hotel’s sister property, where gourmands can go on a tour of the farm before a delicious lunch, where vegetables are placed centre-stage in the plant-heavy, mostly fire-cooked tasting menu and mocktails are served using herbs and flowers grown in the garden.
The spacious villas have pitched ceilings, glossy teak accents and a full-size private pool, many with a view of the Andaman Sea, which is especially handy at sunset. The estate is also home to several privately owned residences, with as many as eight bedrooms. Don’t miss a trip to the spa, for an ayurvedic ‘pinda’ massage, which uses heated, herb-filled pouches and traditional Thai limb-pulling techniques.
Best for buzzy resort vibes: Como Point Yamu
If you want a Phuket hotel with a vibrant resort atmosphere, book a stay at Como Point Yamu, which has a fun, cosmopolitan air. The arrival is rather spectacular, with smooth concrete steps leading up to a huge open-air lobby with incredible views of the Andaman Sea in every direction and the limestone karsts of Phang Nga Bay visible, too. There are vast, high-ceilinged suites with a Capri-style white and turquoise palette and rooms with private pools, along with multi-bedroom villas, making it an excellent choice for multi-generation holidays. The hub of the hotel is its lengthy outdoor pool, where guests gather to while away the days with the cocktails flowing.
As with most other Como outposts around the world, the spa is a highlight – guests can join morning yoga classes and stretching sessions, and massages scented with the brand’s signature oil (which is basically the smell of spa heaven, bottled). Dining options within the resort include the Italian-leaning international eatery La Sirena and a Thai restaurant, or you can summon a cab to take you to Phuket old town (40 or so minutes away by car) to try some of its simple but superlative foodie hotspots.
You Might Also Like
